Introduction
I first met Kwok Ying von Beuningen during a visit to Oukan, a fine-dining vegan restaurant where her role as Tea Sommelier captured my attention. She embodies a deep respect for tea, its rituals, and its rich history. When we met again over a meal at Soopoollim, a South Korean Tea House and eatery in Berlin, I learnt more about her journey. The role of a tea sommelier is a rare and meticulous art, one that combines knowledge, sensitivity, and the ability to curate an experience that highlights the profound depths of tea. I’m thrilled to share her journey, insights, and philosophy with all of you here. She is also the founder of “Die Kunst des Tees” - translated as The Art of Tea”, a tea event organiser, tea trainer and tea pairing curator.
Lorela: Hi Kwok! I’m thrilled to sit down with you again here at Soopoollim after my wonderful time at Oukan. Let’s dive into your background—how did you first begin your journey with tea and food pairing?
Kwok Ying: Thank you for having me, Lorela! It’s great to reconnect. Growing up in Hong Kong, tea was a daily part of life, but we didn’t think of it as a separate pairing element for meals—it was integrated into the experience naturally. I didn’t realize, it could be so nuanced until much later. When I moved to Germany in 2004, I felt quite out of place, to be honest. I missed that sense of community and cultural connection. As I was searching for "something" to help me find some ground in Germany and be able to feel at home, tea came to my mind and offered a sense of comfort. It triggered me to explore more and started to see tea as a potential bridge, something I could connect with and share with others in Germany.
Lorela: So tea became a way to reconnect with home. How did you go about learning more about it in Germany?
Kwok: Initially, I tried a government-accredited tea sommelier course, hoping to develop into the craft, but it only scratched the surface. It was a quick five-day course, quite generic but helpful to build an overview of tea. I wanted more—I craved the tradition, the artistry, the history behind tea. So, I began travelling to China, focusing on tea-rich areas like Fujian, Yunnan, and Guangdong, places known for their heritage teas. The beautiful thing was, coming from Hong Kong, I could travel on a budget, and I funded these trips by sourcing teas I’d bring back to Germany to sell on eBay. Around that time, the interest in premium teas in Germany started to bud, and I was fortunate to be able to finance my tea trips in this way.
Tea Travels & Satisfying Moments in China, Taiwan & Japan
Lorela: What an incredible initiative! It sounds like sourcing tea wasn’t just a business venture but a full cultural immersion. What kept you inspired to keep expanding and exploring?
Kwok: Absolutely. Every trip offered something new, and I quickly became fascinated with the intricacies of each type of tea. Eventually, I wanted to learn more about Taiwanese teas, especially oolongs, and the unique roasting process they undergo. To understand it, I stayed with tea masters at a monastery in Taiwan, learning the technique and tasting tea at every stage. This immersion was eye-opening—I spent my days steeped in the process, waking up with tea, analysing each step, and learning how temperature, air, and time affect flavour. For me, if there’s a chance to explore tea culture firsthand, I take it. It’s a lifelong learning journey, and each visit to a tea-growing region brings me closer to understanding the essence of tea.
Lorela: That dedication is inspiring! As a tea sommelier now, what are some of the biggest challenges you face?
Kwok: One of the hardest things for me is the way we often treat tea as a single-use experience in restaurants. When I train staff, I emphasise proper brewing techniques and presentation to capture the essence of each tea. But many teas truly shine through multiple infusions, each one revealing new layers and flavours. However, in a fine dining setting, we typically serve a single infusion. Part of me feels like we’re losing the opportunity to showcase the depth of tea, but I also realise that sometimes less is more for introducing people to the world of tea. Each cup I serve is an invitation to explore a complex world, even if it’s just a small taste.
Oukan, Vegan Fine Dining Restaurant
Lorela: I love that perspective. You’re opening a door, even if it’s just a crack, for people to experience the complexity of tea. Speaking of which, how do you approach tea pairings at Oukan?
Kwok: Pairing tea with food is an art of its own. When I’m working on a pairing, I think of food as one ingredient in a bigger composition. It’s about finding harmony—much like creating a balanced salad, where each element supports the whole but also stands out on its own. Not every tea works with every dish, so I carefully research each flavour profile, texture, and even temperature. For example, with a fresh vegan dish, I might choose a light, floral tea with a subtle sweetness to highlight the dish’s natural flavours. Tea is incredibly versatile, and when paired well, it can elevate a meal from start to finish.
Lorela: Such a thoughtful approach! Could you give us an example of a specific pairing you’ve crafted at Oukan and how it comes together?
Kwok: Sure! Pairing is always a collaborative process at Oukan, often involving our wine sommelier and the entire creative team. Let’s say we’re creating a pairing for a delicate, umami-rich dish. In that case, I might choose a Japanese sencha, as it has a grassy depth that can enhance the umami without overwhelming it. Our wine sommelier and I will test the options, ensuring both the wine and tea pairings work in harmony. Each decision is intentional, taking into account not just flavour but the overall experience we want our guests to enjoy. It’s an intricate process, but it’s rewarding when everything clicks.
Lorela: That sounds like such a meticulous and artful process! For anyone wanting to follow in your footsteps as a tea sommelier, what advice would you give?
Kwok: Tasting, tasting, tasting—that’s the key. The world of tea is vast, and every cup teaches you something new. Try as many varieties as possible, from different regions, and take your time to understand what you’re tasting. Engage all your senses. Don’t rush; allow yourself to connect with each tea and develop an appreciation for the subtle differences. This approach is essential not only for building your palate but also for connecting with the cultural depth tea has to offer. Every sip is part of a larger story, and if you can embrace that, you’re already halfway there.
Tasting, tasting, tasting—that’s the key!
Lorela: Beautiful advice, Kwok. Thank you so much for sharing your insights and your story with us today. It’s truly inspiring to hear from someone so devoted to the art of tea.
Kwok Ying von Beuningen: Thank you, Lorela! It’s been a pleasure sharing this with you and your readers. I hope they feel inspired to dive deeper into the world of tea and find their own connection to it.
Conclusion
Meeting Kwok Ying has deepened my appreciation for tea and the rich artistry that goes into being a tea sommelier. Kwok’s journey demonstrates how tea can transcend borders, infusing cultural connection into every sip and blending seamlessly with culinary innovation. Tea sommeliers like Kwok guide us through these layers, helping us taste not only a drink but a tradition, a story, a craft. If you’re curious about tea or the path of a tea sommelier, take Kwok’s advice to heart—immerse yourself, sip slowly, and savour each cup as a gateway to discovery.
All pictures were credited by Kwow Ying von Beuningen
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