Through the Tea: Katsuhito’s Journey of Taste, Heart, and Heritage
- Lorela Lohan
- 2 days ago
- 12 min read
This interview is presented first in English, followed by the Japanese translation.
このインタビューは、最初に英語で、その後に日本語訳を掲載しています。
Introduction
I first met Katsuhito a year and a half ago in Paris, when he was working as the Tea Experience Manager at OGATA, a refined space where Japanese aesthetics and gastronomy meet. What struck me during the SAJIKI tea tasting wasn’t just the flavour of the tea but the way he presented it — with calm, intentional gestures that created a sense of stillness and presence in the room. It felt less like a demonstration and more like a shared moment.
Since then, I’ve followed Katsuhito’s evolving tea journey as he began crafting his path, creating deeply considered tea experiences across Europe—always with an eye for harmony, subtlety, and emotional connection. Through his work and his thoughtful posts on Instagram @iimaismii, he offers glimpses into the quiet beauty of tea culture, inviting others to slow down and savour.
At the end of March, while I was in Paris again, we met at Séréni-thé, a peaceful corner dedicated to Chinese tea, to share a pot and conversation. What followed was a thoughtful dialogue about his relationship with Japanese tea, his inspirations, and the future he envisions for tea culture in Japan and abroad.
This interview traces that journey—from his early days in professional kitchens to becoming a bridge between traditional Japanese tea and a contemporary, global audience.
My Journey with Tea
Lorela: Can you share your personal story with tea? What led you to become so deeply connected with Japanese tea culture?
Katsuhito: I have always been interested in Japanese food culture, especially regional cuisines rooted in local traditions and the seasonal approach to eating. Naturally, this led me to encounter Japanese tea culture, which drew me in even more deeply. While working in professional kitchens, I began to feel that I wanted to offer something that not only pleased the palate but also nourished the heart and body.
...That realisation became the turning point that led me to the world of tea.
At the time, I couldn’t find anyone to teach me about Japanese tea, so I decided that if no one could teach me, I would become someone who could teach others. I began studying seriously, starting with foundational training at Sakurai Japanese Tea Experience. I also travelled to Taiwan, China, and Korea to learn about their tea cultures.
In my youth, I was fortunate to experience various forms of tea culture—attending an intimate nighttime tea gathering (yobanashi), receiving precious matcha bowls, and even experiencing the incense ceremony (kōdō). Many adults around me gave me those formative experiences. Among them, the hospitality of the owner of Chako-bō Chikutake in Kyoto left a particularly lasting impression on me.
Aesthetics of Tea
Lorela: How would you describe the aesthetics of Japanese tea? How does it influence not just the taste but also the experience of drinking tea?
Katsuhito: I believe the aesthetics of Japanese tea lie in how deeply one can express care and thoughtfulness without using words. The host is always extending their hand, and when the guest reaches out to receive it, a truly meaningful moment is created.
I think there are two kinds of taste: the flavour felt on the tongue and the feeling of savouring something with the heart. While it’s important to draw out the best possible flavour, creating an experience that touches the heart is equally essential. When both elements align, they create a truly memorable tea experience.
Tea in Everyday Life
Lorela: How do you think tea can be integrated into everyday life, especially in a modern context?
Katsuhito: I believe everything begins with having a tea experience that moves you. Whether it’s the taste, the vessel, or a single flower—if you encounter something that draws you in, it becomes a natural entry point.
It’s also important to break the misconception that Japanese tea is difficult to brew. Of course, careful attention to temperature and steeping time brings out the best in tea, but there are also more casual and free approaches. Japanese tea includes much more than just matcha and sencha—such as hōjicha and bancha. By conveying this diversity, tea becomes much easier to incorporate into daily life.
Favourite Tea
Lorela: Do you have a favourite tea, and does it change with the seasons or your mood?
Katsuhito: It’s always a difficult question. Honestly, I enjoy all kinds of tea. I have over a hundred types of tea at home, both purchased and gifted. I choose what to drink based on my mood or what I’m pairing it with that day.
Engaging Younger Generations
Lorela: What are your ideas for making tea more appealing to younger generations, both in Japan and abroad, particularly in France?
Katsuhito: Introducing tea to younger generations is important in any field. In Europe especially, tea culture is still developing, so I believe it’s crucial to expand access through various kinds of experiences.
The existing matcha boom is a great entry point, but we need to increase casual access to tea while also offering opportunities for authentic, high-quality experiences from an early stage. To communicate tea’s value to children, I think it’s essential that adults first show how much they enjoy it.
Also, just like in Japan, I would love to see tea introduced as part of food education in schools in France.
Japanese Tea Culture in France
Lorela: How do you see Japanese tea culture being received in France? What differences or similarities do you observe in how tea is appreciated between the two countries?
Katsuhito: France has a deeply rooted culture of savouring—through cuisine, wine, and cheese—and a strong curiosity toward taste. I think this makes the French especially receptive to the depth of Japanese tea.
Like wine, tea varies greatly depending on its origin, cultivar, and processing method, so there’s a strong affinity with the French understanding of terroir. On the other hand, while umami and bitterness are familiar and appreciated in Japan, these flavours can be overwhelming for those not used to them. In such cases, teas like bancha and hōjicha can be a gentler and more accessible introduction.
Tea farm in France, connecting French & Japanese potters, tea session in France
ThroughTheTea & ThroughTheTea-Stories
Lorela: What inspired you to create ThroughTheTea and ThroughTheTea-Stories? What do you hope to achieve with these initiatives?
Katsuhito: I launched Through The Tea as a brand to present my work in Europe. In Japan, I work under the name “Cha-to,” but I chose an English name for international clarity. Both names carry a Japanese sensibility—leaving room for interpretation and imagination. I hope people feel that endless possibilities can begin through tea.
Through The Tea Stories started during the pandemic when in-person activities weren’t possible. I wanted to learn more about tea cultures around the world, so I invited people to one-on-one tea gatherings (ikkyaku ittei), asked them questions, and documented their responses. While we can read historical texts to understand how people enjoyed tea in the past, I felt compelled to document how tea lives in the present.
Tea and Creativity
Lorela: Tea often inspires mindfulness and creativity. How has your relationship with tea influenced your creative process or perspective on life?
Katsuhito: When I serve tea, I always do so with the hope that a sense of warmth is conveyed. I hope that the person receiving the tea will carry that warmth with them and, in turn, pass it on to their loved ones or even to themselves.
That kind of connection spreads outward, not only across people but across time—from past to future. I believe tea has the power to bring gentle change to the world. Living with that belief has helped make my own daily life more peaceful and fulfilling.
Challenges for Japanese Tea
Lorela: What do you see as the biggest challenges for Japanese tea in today’s globalized market, and how can these be addressed?
Katsuhito: Japan is facing a serious ageing population, and the number of tea producers is decreasing each year. If this continues, not only tea itself but also the tools and machinery associated with it could be lost. Passing on these skills and cultural elements to future generations is the greatest challenge we face.
Of course, it’s important to share Japanese tea globally, but it’s equally important that Japanese people themselves enjoy and value their tea culture. Domestic tea consumption is declining, so we need to create systems and environments that encourage people in Japan to rediscover and enjoy tea.
Vision for the Future
Lorela: Where do you see your tea journey taking you in the next few years? What are your aspirations for the future of tea culture in Japan and beyond?
Katsuhito: For now, I hope to continue developing my activities in Paris and focus on spreading Japanese tea culture throughout Europe. I plan to hold tea gatherings and workshops in various countries to give more people the opportunity to experience tea firsthand.
I would also love to host gatherings that reflect local cultures—featuring regional teas, herbs, seasonal ingredients, ceramics, flowers, and scents. At the same time, I want to continue projects like Through The Tea Stories by visiting different regions, experiencing contemporary tea cultures, and documenting them along the way.
Interview in Japanese
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My Journey with Tea
Can you share your personal story with tea? What led you to become so deeply connected with Japanese tea culture?
もともと日本の食文化、特に地域に根ざした郷土料理や季節に応じた食のあり方に関心がありました。その延長線上で日本茶の文化と出会い、より深く惹かれるようになりました。料理の現場で働いていたとき、ただ味覚的に美味しいだけでなく、心と身体の両方が喜ぶものを届けたいと思うようになり、それが茶の道へ進む決定的なきっかけになりました。
当時、日本茶を学びたいと思っても教えてくれる人がいなかったため、「それなら自分が伝えられる人になろう」と決意し、学びを深めていきました。まず櫻井焙茶研究所で基礎を学び、さらに台湾、中国、韓国などにも足を運んで他の茶文化にも触れました。
また、若い頃に一客一亭の夜咄の茶事を体験させてもらったり、貴重な抹茶碗をいただいたり、香道を体験させてもらったりと、周囲の大人たちがさまざまな形でお茶に関わるの機会を与えてくれたことにも大きく影響を受けました。特に京都の茶香房長竹の店主のもてなしは、今でも深く心に残っています。
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Aesthetics of Tea
How would you describe the aesthetics of Japanese tea? How does it influence not just the taste but also the experience of drinking tea?
言葉を使わず、いかに相手のことを思いやっているかを伝える——それが日本茶の美学だと考えています。主は常に握手するために手を差し出していて、その手を客が受け取ったとき、真に意味のある時間が生まれます。
味には、舌で感じる「味」と心で感じる「味わい」があると思っています。味覚としての美味しさを引き出すことはもちろん大切ですが、それに加えて心が喜ぶような体験を届けること。この二つが重なると、記憶に残る本当によいお茶の時間が生まれると思います。
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Tea in Everyday Life
How do you think tea can be integrated into everyday life, especially in a modern context?
お茶に心を動かされるような体験をすることが、まずは大切だと思います。味でも、器でも、花でも、何かひとつでも惹かれるものに出会うことで、「自分もやってみたい」と思えるようになる。それが自然な入口になります。
また、「日本茶は淹れるのが難しい」というイメージを払拭することも必要です。もちろん温度や時間を丁寧に管理したお茶は美味しくはいりますが、もっと自由で気軽なものも多くあります。例えば日本茶には抹茶や煎茶だけでなく、ほうじ茶や番茶などさまざまな種類があります。そうした多様性を伝えることで、より日常に取り入れやすくなるはずです。
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Favourite Tea
Do you have a favourite tea, and does it change with the seasons or your mood?
とても難しい質問です。基本的に、どんなお茶も好きです。買ったものもいただいたものも含めて、家には100種類以上のお茶があります。その日の気分や、何に合わせるかに応じて、いつも異なるお茶を選んで楽しんでいます。
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Engaging Younger Generations
What are your ideas for making tea more appealing to younger generations in Japan and abroad, particularly in France?
若い世代にお茶を知ってもらうことは、どの分野においても重要だと思います。特にヨーロッパでは、まだお茶文化が根付いているとは言えない段階なので、どんな体験であれ裾野を広げていくことが大切だと感じています。
すでに浸透している抹茶ブームは良い入口だと思いますが、気軽に触れられる体験を増やしながら、同時に本物の、質の高い体験に早い段階で出会えるような機会もつくっていく必要があります。
子供たちに伝えるためにも、まず大人たち自身が楽しんでいる姿を見せることも大事だと考えています。
また、フランスでも日本と同様に、学校教育の中で食育の一環としてお茶を伝える機会を設けていけたらと思っています。
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Japanese Tea Culture in France
How do you see Japanese tea culture being received in France? What differences or similarities do you observe in how tea is appreciated between the two countries?
フランスには料理、ワイン、チーズといった味わう文化が根付いており、味覚に対する探究心も非常に高いです。その意味で、日本茶のもつ奥深さとの相性はとても良いと感じています。
ワインと同じように、お茶も産地や品種、製法によって多様な味わいが生まれますので、テロワール的な理解を持つフランスの文化とも共鳴しやすいです。
一方で、日本では旨味や渋みを味わう習慣が根付いていますが、フランスではそうした味に慣れていない人も多いため、特に緑茶の旨味や渋みを強く感じてしまうことがあります。そういった場合には、番茶や焙じ茶など、より受け入れやすいお茶を紹介していくことが有効だと思います。
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ThroughTheTea & ThroughTheTea-Stories
What inspired you to create ThroughTheTea and ThroughTheTea-Stories? What do you hope to achieve with these initiatives?
Through The Teaは、ヨーロッパにおいて自分の活動を紹介するためのブランドとして立ち上げました。日本では「茶と」という名前で活動していますが、よりグローバルに伝わりやすいよう英語名にしました。どちらの名前にも、日本的な余白と感性を込めており、「お茶を通して何かが始まる」という可能性を感じてもらえたら嬉しいです。
Through The Tea Storiesは、コロナ禍で対面の活動ができなかった時期に始めたプロジェクトです。もっと世界中のお茶文化を知りたいと思い、一客一亭の形式で人々を招き、質問を投げかけ、答えていただきました。昔の文献を見れば、過去の人々がどんなお茶を飲んでいたかはわかりますが、現代の茶文化がどのように生きているのかを自分自身で知りたくなったのがきっかけです。
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Tea and Creativity
Tea often inspires mindfulness and creativity. How has your relationship with tea influenced your creative process or perspective on life?
お茶を手渡すときには、いつも「温かな気持ちが伝わりますように」と願っています。そのお茶を受け取った人が、自分自身や家族、大切な人へとまたその温かさを手渡していけたらと。それが広がり、つながりになっていく。
そのつながりは、今という時間を超えて、過去から未来へと続いていくものでもあります。お茶には、世界を少しでも穏やかにする力があると信じていて、その思いを持って日々を過ごすことで、自分自身の暮らしもまた穏やかで豊かなものになっていきました。
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Challenges for Japanese Tea
What do you see as the biggest challenges for Japanese tea in today’s globalized market, and how can these be addressed?
日本は深刻な高齢化が進んでおり、茶の生産者が年々減少しています。このままでは、お茶そのものだけでなく、道具や機械をつくる職人の技術も失われてしまう危険があります。それらの技術や文化をどのように次世代に引き継いでいくかが、最大の課題だと感じています。
もちろん、日本のお茶を世界に広めていくことも大切ですが、日本の人々自身が日本茶を楽しむこともとても大切だと思います。国内の消費量が減少している今こそ、日本の茶文化を改めて見直し、楽しんでもらえるような仕組みを作っていきたいと考えています。
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Vision for the Future
Where do you see your tea journey taking you in the next few years? What are your aspirations for the future of tea culture in Japan and beyond?
ひとまずはパリを中心に活動を展開し、ヨーロッパにおける日本茶文化の普及に努めたいと考えています。各国で茶会やワークショップを開催し、多くの人にお茶に触れる機会を届けていきたいです。
またその土地の茶やハーブ、季節の食材、器、花、香りなどを取り入れた、その地域ならではの茶会を開催することもしていきたいです。
同時にThrough The Tea Storiesのように、各地を訪れて現代の茶文化を体験・記録する取り組みも続けていきたいと思っています。
All pictures were credited by Katsuhito
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